One of the things I wanted to do when coming to Malta was to see an archeological site called the Hypogeum. I’m not really sure what attracted me about this place, but in researching what to do in Malta, I discovered a website, www.heritagemalta.org. This website has loads of information about all the heritage sites in Malta. I’m rather interested in all the goddess history of this place and there are loads of ancient temples and sites to explore. I saw that the Hypogeum was closing for renovation during the time we would be in Malta, except for the very first week. So, I had purchased tickets a couple of months ago. Due to the fragility of this ancient site, only 80 people per day are permitted in to the area.
Eve joined us in going to the Hypogeum. She came to the flat to meet us. We had called Miguel to hire him to drive us to the Hypogeum. We arrived too early and walked around looking for a café for a cup of coffee, but few of the shops were open. Today, March 31st, is a national holiday in Malta, Freedom Day. This is a celebration of the last day of British presence in Malta, 1979. Malta became independent from the UK in 1964, but the last British forces left in 1979. We did finally find a little stand selling pastries and coffee. With cappuccino in hand, we sat on a bench in a little square in the area.
The Hypogeum is one of the most historic archeological sites in Europe. The word literally means “underground,” and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum is an underground prehistoric burial site, or necropolis. The Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum is a complex made up of interconnecting rock-cut chambers set on three distinct levels. Earliest remains at the site date back to about 4000BC, and the complex was used over a span of many centuries, up to c. 2500 BC. It was discovered in 1902 by some workers who were digging a cistern for a house. This was a fascinating, although macabre, tour.
The Hypogeum is three levels deep. Apparently, as the dead bodies piled up, they’d just dig another room below and kick the bones down below. Some 7,000 bodies were buried here over a span of about 1,000 years, so it was apparently a place for only certain types of people to be buried. But what’s amazing is that the rock was chiseled out using bone and stone hand tools. These chambers were impressively large. One of the main tombs was carved to look like it had a doorway of columns and a lintel, but that was just formed out of the rock itself, not freestanding pieces.
I wasn’t able to take photographs in the Hypogeum, but the link below goes to a website where you can see some photos and a webcam of the site.
http://heritagemalta.org/museums-sites/hal-saflieni-hypogeum/
It was quite an experience being underground in this site. I’m glad I got tickets to attend the tour.
After the Hypogeum, we walked to a nearby temple site, the Tarxien Temples. The Tarxien Temples site consists of a complex of four megalithic structures built between 3600 and 2500 BC and re-used between 2400 and 1500 BC. It was discovered in 1913 by local farmers plowing a field. This was an interesting place. To help preserve the site, a huge arching tent-like structure has been constructed over the remains of the site. This temple site is abutted by housing and the encroachment of the city, so it is quite weird to be walking through an archeological site and also seeing the neighbors laundry hanging off a balcony.
I know photos of an archeological site often just look like a pile of rocks. So, I’ll only post a few that I think give the flavor of the place.
After Tarxien, we got on a public transport bus back to our neighborhood. We had lunch at a nice place overlooking the sea. We all went back to the apartment where Christine and I pegged up the washing I had done early this morning. We have rooftop access in the apartment building so we made use of the clothesline. Did I mention that we have a fantastic view from our building???
Christine and Eve then took naps and I worked on a blog posting. Later in the afternoon, Eve wanted to swim in a nearby pool, the Neptune Water Polo Club. It is right around the end of Balluta Bay and is at sea edge. After some difficulty, Eve managed to get in to the pool and had a nice swim. Afterwards, we had a drink in a nearby restaurant and waited for 7:00 p.m. when it was time to meet Carol and Joe Farrugia for dinner.
We had met Carol Tuesday night. Christine and Carol are second cousins as their grandmothers were sisters. Carol’s husband Joe is a delightful man. During his career he was an important figure in the museum world here in Malta. Much of the dinner conversation was another walk down memory lane talking about the family tree and figuring out how people are related and who was who. Unfortunately, the restaurant, U Bistrot, was very noisy and we had to shout to be heard some of the time. Eve was appreciative, though, of the opportunity to make a connection with some Maltese relatives. It was a lovely evening and we had a very enjoyable time.
Ah, so that is Tarxien. it was under construction when i saw it, so it was hardly visible to us. nice to see it. i can feel it.
What did you think about the round room in the Hypogium? I believe they used that room to hold council. I loved that room, to me, it had a rich feeling, touching me deeply. Also not so macabre.
thanks so much for your blog.
So glad you are having time with Eve, Carol and Joe, please send them my love.
Sending my love.