The Aussies were headed to Mellieha today. Bernadette’s partner David volunteers for Heritage Malta and he had a shift at the Red Tower so he invited them to visit him at the Tower. We weren’t sure we would go, but later in the morning we decided to hook up with the Aussies at 1:30 at the Tower.
We got the bus to Mellieha. My plan was to find a cafe or restaurant on the bay and have lunch, then get a cab up to the Tower. We got off the bus towards the bottom of the hill before getting to Ghadira Bay. The Parish Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, Mellieha’s Parish Church is a striking building that stands out all over northern Malta. Much of Mellieha sits at the top of the several hills. I always forget how hilly Malta is. In the field across the road were several small farm plots. Much of the agriculture in Malta is done on small plots worked by Maltese families.
We made our way to Mellieha Bay and had a nice view across the water. You can see the Red Tower on the hill across the bay.
Ghadira Bay offers the largest sand beach in Malta. Christine remembers coming here to swim as a child. Her Auntie Tessie and Uncle Walter had a place in Mellieha. It’s an especially good place for families as the water remains quite shallow for a long way out into the bay making it fairly safe for children.
Of course, the sand beach is full of loungers and umbrellas for rent.
We found a little restaurant near the blue and white umbrellas in the shade and enjoyed a light lunch and had a cold drink.
We definitely did not want to walk up to the Tower, so we ordered a taxi. Within minutes, we were picked up and whisked up the hill to the Tower. We wandered around the perimeter of the Red Tower awaiting the Aussie’s arrival. The views from the ridge were spectacular, and even better once on the Tower’s top deck.
Saint Agatha’s tower, better known as the Red Tower, formed part of a vast coastal defense system of fortifications and watch towers built by the Knights of the Order of St. John during the 17th and 18th centuries to protect the coastline from incursions by the Ottoman Turks and Barbary Corsairs from North Africa. The Red Tower was built over 2 years in 1648-49.
Here’s a map showing all the fortifications and watch towers that were built around the Maltese Islands.
The fortified tower is situated on the commanding heights of Marfa Ridge above Ghadira Bay and overlooks the small island of Comino and the Gozo Channel. One of the Grand Master had built a very similar tower on Comino, St. Mary’s Tower. St. Mary’s Tower and the Red Tower could each blast cannonballs into the Gozo Channel thus sinking invading ships in the crossfire. You can see St. Mary’s Tower on Comino in the photo below on the lower right. Across the channel is the island of Gozo.
The Red Tower was comprised of 4 levels, including a very large cistern below the tower that captured rainwater from the roof. The cistern held 53,000 liters of water, enough to supply 50 soldiers for some 40 days. The second level was the main hall comprised of two vaults where the garrison lived. On this level was a niche with a small altar dedicated to the Tower’s patron, St. Agatha. St. Agatha was an early Christian martyr. Her story is really quite gruesome.
Here’s the crew watching a video about the history of the Knights and the Red Tower.
Tony was hurting because he, Linda and Dion walked up to the Tower up a very steep hill from the bus stop. Linda said that he has been having difficulty walking and so I had great sympathy for him having done that difficult climb.
The third level of the Tower was sleeping space for additional soldiers sent to defend when there were sightings of Turks or Corsairs. The final level is the roof. The levels are accessible by a spiral staircase.
The square roof is flanked by 4 turrets. The turrets provided shelter for the guards and were also used to store gunpowder and weapons. And the views were stunning. The map below shows whats visible from the Tower.
I am happy to have finally visited the Red Tower. I’ve been intrigued by it on all our visits, sitting proudly up on that ridge. So, another check mark on my list of Maltese things to do.
We didn’t want to walk down the hill to the bus stop, and I didn’t want Tony to have to do that either. So I called an Uber, which is mostly served by the Bolt taxi service. Tony, Christine and I piled into the cab leaving Linda and Dion to walk to the bus stop (that’s what they wanted to do). It’s about a 45 minute drive back to Sliema and we were happy not to be on a crowded bus. I think Tony was really appreciative for the ride.
We had another night in and had a light dinner and watched TV.