04/24/2022: Luzern (2nd day)

Today is Sunday and there are lots of church bells ringing that sound so nice up and down the river. The bells of the Jesuit Church right in front of our Airbnb actually rings most at about 5:00 p.m., but not so much this morning. However, all over Old Town and down river, the bells clanged away as we were heading out.

Because the weather forecast was for rain in the afternoon, I wanted to get more sightseeing in this morning, so we were out and about by 9:00.

The thing I was interested to see was Museggmauer, the Musegg Wall. The historic city wall was once part of the fortification of Luzern. Initially, the fortification was down around the river area, as the Chapel Bridge and Spreuer Bridge were part of that fortification defending against invasion from Lake Luzern. As the town grew, a wall was built around the city. The wall and 9 towers were built in the 13th century. With the preservation of the wall, it is one of the longest defensive walls still standing in the country. Each of the towers is named and served a different purpose.

On our way up the steep climb to the wall, we really appreciated the scenery, especially the wisteria, which is in full bloom all over Luzern. Christine said she wished she could take a picture of the smell. We also walked past a farm having Highland cattle and a great saying on the side of a shed.

Walking up to the wall and towers was amazing.

What made it especially great was that a young woman who was walking her dog up to the top of the fortification stopped to chat. She wanted to tell us about the interesting birds that were nesting in the wall. She then gave us suggestions about what to see around the fortification. This woman’s name was Iwona, who grew up in Germany (we sailed past her hometown during our cruise), but is now living in Luzern. We chatted for a while and she went on her way with her lovely dog Tessa. But as we wandered around the fortification, we would run in to Iwona and chat some more. Christine told her our life story and all about our travels. Iwona was really impressed that we’ve been together for 41 years and shared that since her breakup with her boyfriend that she has had a hard time. She is a very lovely woman and we seemed to have a connection. We got her email address and we plan on staying in touch.

From the walkway on top of the wall we got spectacular views of Lake Luzern and the Alps. Luzern is often called “gateway to the Alps,” and I can see why.

Iwona offered to take our picture, a nice gesture since we are terrible at selfies and we don’t have many photos of us together (this one’s for you Joyce).

One of the towers is the named Zeitturm (Time Tower) and it was purposely designed to accommodate the city clock. This tower was built in 1403. The clock dial measures 3-4 meters “carried” by two giant figures painted on the facade. Placed in such a way that one could read the time from afar, the digits were made large enough to be seen by fishermen on the lake. Since the late Middle Ages the Time Tower has had the privilege of the first strike; its clock chimes the hour one minute before any other public clock in Luzern.

We strolled back down the hill to the river and snapped photos along the way.

We are on move tomorrow so I thought it would be a good idea to find our departure place. Although I had intended to purchase train tickets to Milan, I unknowingly booked bus tickets to Arth-Goldau, Switzerland. There we will then get on the train to Milan. The bus station is a few blocks past the train station and now we know where we’ll need to go tomorrow, about a 15 minute walk from the Airbnb. Right near our Airbnb is a sculpture, so I had to stop and say hi to the goatherd.

After a buffet lunch at Tibits we walked back to the Airbnb. The rain finally caught up with us so staying in for the afternoon was perfect as it afforded us an opportunity to do some laundry, which was a challenge because all the instructions to use the washer and dryer in the building’s laundry room were in German. And you had to open up a storage cabinet that had meters for each machine that you had to feed with Swiss franc coins to purchase minutes of time (yes, even for the washer). After loading the washer and figuring out how to start it, I stood watching the washer for a few minutes, it was a front loader with a window. I couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t seeing any water. Finally, I noticed that I needed to turn a faucet on from the sink nearby. That fixed the no water problem. Using the dryer was easier. But we have been equipment challenged at the Airbnb because we couldn’t figure out how to use the coffee machine this morning.

We went around the corner for dinner at the Bistro du Theater, a nice little restaurant. Christine said that she wanted a big salad for dinner and amazingly this bistro had a whole page of salad bowls on the menu. That was perfect and we both enjoyed our dinner.

Now it’s time to get packed up and be ready to go on to our next adventure, Milano, in the morning.

04/23/2022: Onward to Luzern, Switzerland

Our riverboat cruise came to an end this morning in Basel, Switzerland. We had breakfast on the ship and then set off by bus to the Zurich airport where we were taking a train to Luzern. It was kind of sad to be ending our cruise. We had a lot of fun and met many wonderful women, especially Ann and Christa from Wisconsin. We thoroughly enjoyed getting to know them. Also, Lynn and Christy from Florida were fun as well as Lisa and Lorraine. At any rate, the bus arrived at the airport and we said our goodbyes and gave hugs and then we were off on our next adventure. This past week, everything was arranged and done for us. We just had to sit back and let the cruise director take care of all the details. Now we’re on our own and we’ll see how well I did making all the travel and lodging bookings and whether we can figure out how to get from here to there.

Our first test was finding the train station at the airport. We intentionally did not go down the fake escalator having no steps and did the smart thing and took an elevator. There’s a pretty big train station below one of the airport terminals. I am so impressed with the transportation systems in Europe. Our bus guide said that it is possible to get to every village in Switzerland by public transport, train, tram, regional bus, and local bus. I suspect that it is very similar throughout European countries.

Having found our train platform, we went back upstairs to have lunch and wait for our train. We left Zurich at 1:15 and arrived in Luzern at 2:25. We couldn’t check into our Airbnb until 4:00, but we went to look for the address. We wandered around for an hour; it was supposed to be a 10 minute walk from the train station. We had no luck locating the address. A nice lady stopped and asked if she could help, but she wasn’t sure of the address. Christine asked a shopkeeper nearby, but he pointed us in the wrong direction. Christine sat on a bench with all our luggage and I went down an alley looking for some hidden entrance and saw a women in a shop and asked. She knew right where we were to go and led me to the entrance. We had walked by the place a half-dozen times but because the entrance was set back from the rest of the shops we didn’t notice it. I then went back to collect Christine and the luggage and by now it was check-in time.

The Airbnb is austere, but nice. Its beauty, however, is its location, right near all the major historical sites around the river and directly across from Old Town. Here’s what we can see from our window.

We rested a little and then headed out to see some sights. After a week of wonderful weather, the next few days have rain in the forecast so I wanted to see a bit of Old Town Luzern without getting wet. Luzern is the German spelling for Lucerne. This part of Switzerland is German-speaking. There are 4 official languages in Switzerland, German, French, Italian, and Romansh.

Chapel Bridge

The Chapel Bridge is just steps from our Airbnb. It is the symbol for Luzern, at least it is the image of Luzern that most people have in mind. The river is the Reuss River which has Lake Luzern as its mouth just a couple of hundred feet beyond Chapel Bridge. The bridge was originally built in 1333 as part of Luzern’s fortifications.

Paintings inside the bridge in the peaks

The unique paintings in the interior triangles date back to the 17th century. There originally were 147 paintings, but a devastating fire in 1993 destroyed most of them as well as a large part of the bridge. 30 of the paintings have been restored, as well as the bridge itself.

We wandered around both sides of the river and stopped for a pizza for dinner (I know – Naples is where we should be getting pizza!). Although it was chilly, it was fun sitting outside along the promenade people watching. Luzern is very touristy, for sure, but we were excited to be here enjoying the tourist experience. Here is some of what we saw today.

These photos are of Zunfthaus zu Pfistern and is one of the very few guild houses left standing in the city. The name Pfister comes from the Latin “pistor”, which was what the Romans called their bakers. The Pfister Guild was founded in Luzern in 1408 by artisans, bakers and millers. The guild hall was where the “great and the good” of this segment of society gathered and where assemblies were held to agree on the flour and bread prices and consider the membership of aspiring guild members. It is now a master bakers’ cooperative. The building’s outside had some great decorations including a family tree.

After enjoying our stroll along both sides of the river, we were ready to head on back to the apartment. It was getting very chilly and we were cold and tired. But what a beautiful place Luzern is.

Dusk in Luzern